Saturday, May 5, 2018

Phantom Menace

Phantom Thread (2017) by P.T. Anderson isn't quite our usual fare - although you could argue that it is a horror movie. But Farran Nehme and Marilyn Ferdinand both liked it, and they have very good taste.

It stars Daniel Day-Lewis as Reynolds Woodcock, a high-fashion couturier in mid-50s London. He lives with his sister Cyril (Lesley Manville) in the townhouse where they design and sew his creations. We meet him at breakfast - a stuffy silent affair. A model, who has apparently been cohabiting with him tries to get his attention, to get him to acknowledge her existence, fruitlessly. Later, Manville suggests that it is time for her to send her off. And since Day-Lewis is exhausted from finishing a commission, he should go up to the country house.

On his way, he stops at an inn for breakfast and the waitress, Alma (Vicky Krieps). She is a bit clumsy, and doesn't have much of a figure, but he tells her that he likes that type. He invites her to dinner, then back to his house. There, he doesn't try to seduce her (as such), but designs a gown for her. So their relationship begins.

It looks like it will end like the last one, and all the ones before that, but she is a bit different, more assertive, within her role, at least. Then comes the turn - I won't reveal it except to say: The Beguiled.

But never mind all of that - what are the frocks like? In my opinion - lovely. They can be extravagant, but all show a certain restraint, usually in the muted or dark color scheme. The day frocks and business wear have that lovely mid-century hint of severity with touches of frivolity, like some antique lace, while the evening gowns and the climactic wedding dress is luxurious without being frothy. We also get a glimpse of how Lewis relates to his customers, bolstering their confidence, bringing out their personality. Then, he makes a gown for a clownish, drunk millioairess Harriet Sansom Harris somewhat against his will. When she passes out drunk in it at her wedding reception, Krieps encourages him to confiscate it as she isn't worthy.

We also learn about his late mother, who he worships. As a boy, he sewed her wedding dress for her second marriage when no one else would - there is a superstition that single women who sew or wear a wedding dress will never marry. He also sews secrets into all his dresses - a message or treasure in the lining of each creation. That's the phantom thread right there.

It turns out that this movie was right up my alley - I live for fashion. This is now my second favorite fashion movie, next to Pret a Porter.

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